31st August to 4th September 2023
I had a late summer getaway and booked a hotel in Paignton for an extra-long weekend. The weather forecast was a bit indifferent and as it turned out completely inaccurate. Driving down on the Thursday it gradually got wetter and when I arrived although the rain had paused it was humid and cloudy. My hotel room had a sea view and a balcony but initially the sea view was theoretical as shown below.
It soon cleared up though and I grabbed a waterproof coat and went off to find food and explore. First down to Paignton seafront which was busy and noisy then after dinner back via the harbour and up over Roundham Head on the coast path, by which point I was carrying the coat, and down the zig-zag cliff path to Goodrington.
My parents spent their honeymoon in Goodrington and it’s been interesting trying to match up fuzzy black and white photos fro 1959 with current locations. As far as I can make out "The Goodrington Quay” hotel at which they stayed is now the Premier Inn on the seafront.
On Friday morning the view had improved considerably.
So had the weather forecast so I decided a trek along the coast path would be nice and help to walk off the excellent full English provided by the hotel. Brixham is “only” 4.8 miles (7.7km) away and I checked beforehand that there was a frequent bus service back to Paignton. So off I set, down through Goodrington. Then up again and down, and up, and down, seeing a steam train crossing Broadsands Viaduct
And along the front at Broadsands where I stopped for a cup of tea and to hide under a parasol because it was now unseasonably hot. Up and down the path went on dropping down steeply into each cove and steeply up again the other side.
It was not an easy stroll, even in the welcome shade of the trees it was still hot and several sections were steep, uneven steps. Not that that stopped the nutcase in shorts and tee-shirt that shot passed me running down them. He was on his way back up the other side of the beach above before I’d carefully picked my way one step at a time down to the bottom! So it went on until I reached Brixham Harbour where I rewarded myself with a pint at the Sprat & Mackerel and sat overlooking the harbour. I felt that I deserved it anyway. Then I went for a wander around Brixham. Last time I was here was almost exactly 5 years ago and the fishing boat “Accumulate” was bedecked with pro-brexit banners.
This time it was in the same spot and looking pretty abandoned so I guess it’s going well for them. I’m struggling to summon up any sympathy.
Anyway the bus back from Brixham was much easier than the walk there. I had takeaway fish and chips for tea because it was Friday. And only had to fight one seagull to keep them.
Saturday morning, another full English, another walk planned. This one pre-planned before I left home routeing from Brownstone car park to the Daymark, then to Brownstone Battery and east along the coast path to Coleton Fishacre where there’s a National Trust cafe and toilets. Also a big house but I skipped that on this occasion. I parked in the NT car park above Brownstone and followed the track south to the Daymark, a 25m tall stone tower built in 1864 as a navigation aid for shipping. A sort of non-lighthouse for diurnal sailors.
Carrying on down the lane brought me to the remains of Brownstone Battery, a second world war defensive position which had gun emplacements and searchlights defending the approach to Dartmouth from Froward Point. There are several small buildings hidden in the trees, the remains of two gun emplacements, the lower one served by its own railway from its magazine above, and the searchlight positions down closer to the water.
And having walked all the way down to that searchlight hut meant climbing back up along the path east along the coast. It was going to be another up and down walk day. Fantastic views though you had to stop to look at them as the path is a bit sketchy in places with long and terminal drops to the sea. Tripping on a rock might prove to be the last thing you do.
At Padcombe Cove I turned left up the steep vally to the NT place at Coleton Fishacre. It was pretty busy but plenty of free tables at the cafe so I stopped for a pot of expensive (because NT) tea and a flapjack. Worth noting for non-members that there appears to be no checks on entry to the grounds from the seaward side and I was able to use the “facilities" without being asked to show my membership card. I suppose if I’d wanted to visit the house I’d have had to go out and join the reception queue to get back in. But I didn’t so I just exited through the mandatory gift shop and up the drive to the top of the hill and back to the car park. I spent most of the rest of the afternoon sitting on that nice shady balcony reading and watching the activity in the bay.
“So where are you walking to today?” asked the waitress serving my now usual breakfast. “Only as far as the railway station,” I replied. With the forecast being overcast (yeah, no it wasn’t) I’d decided to take a ride on the Dartmouth Steam Railway. I’ve been before but don’t need much encouragement to ride on it again and it’s a good way to get to Dartmouth which is a nice place to visit.
I’ll tell you what it’s not though. It’s not a cheap way to get to Dartmouth. Most heritage lines these days for £20-£30 allow you to roam up and down the line all day (e.g. my recent visit to the North Norfolk) The Dartmouth Steam Railway by contrast have closed all their intermediate stations and when you buy your £21 ticket insist that you pick which train you will return on. You are then allocated seats out and back. Now it’s a pleasant enough 20 minute each way ride and the trains weren’t even busy - which meant I could grab an empty seat with better views on the way back - but £21 for what is in effect a one stop advance return ticket represents crap value for money. OK it includes the ferry run by the railway from Kingswear to Dartmouth and back which would otherwise £2 each way (although the adjacent Higher Ferry is only £1 single for foot passengers).
I took a look around the town and got an ice lolly (go to the Co-op the queue is shorter and it’s cheaper than the riverside kiosks) and walked along the river side to the Tudor Bayard’s Cove Fort and then to Dartmouth Castle.
It was too hot to enjoy scrambling around old ruins really. The castle cafe was bedlam. I’d resigned myself to a hot walk back to town and never was the sign for the castle ferry, which I didn’t know about, so welcome. One short river cruise later I was back in Dartmouth drinking beer in The Crab PH by the river. I got the four o’clock train back to Paignton.
Later I went down to Paignton Harbour as I had before to watch the sun set over the top of a glass. Alas the Crab & Hammer wasn’t open so I walked into The Still House instead. Which was a mistake. No decent choice of beer - lager only - and first question was what’s your table number. Didn't have a table number but ordered a pint of Devon Rock Lager. Which the barman insisted on carrying following me out to a table outside like some sort of performance art piece. I noticed all the tables had a QR code nailed to them so they hope you’ll order via your phone. They can FRO with that ‘spoons wannabe idea. Also Devon Rock is watery tasteless pish. And the sunset wasn’t up to much so here’s a photo of the previous night’s.
All in all an unexpectedly good weekend, unexpectedly good hotel, unexpectedly hot weather. Here’s the usual Flickr Album
Since I decided to take the scenic route home on Monday and avoid Stonehenge for a change here’s a picture of a figure carved into a chalk hillside of a man waving his massive weapon about.
Yes, just for the opportunity for the childish humour :-)
