By train to Ludlow and Hereford.

Rail Trip 17th to 20th August 2026 

 

Monday 

By train to Ludlow. All three trains ran on time which might be a first. My forward facing reserved seat on GWR from Reading to Newport (South Wales) turned out to be neither forward facing nor indeed reserved. Fortunately the train wasn’t too busy. Lots of people waiting at Newport on the station platform, I hope they’re not all getting on the train to Ludlow. OK, just stand around the door to the toilets and pile your luggage against it then dickheads. No trouble getting a seat on the train in the end. Transport For Wales having all the announcements in Welsh then repeated in English makes for double the noise pollution.

Wedi sylwi. Wedi sôn. Wedi setlo.

The slightly bewildered looking man across the aisle had a transparent G4S branded backpack and was travelling on a Rail Warrant. I guessed he was just out of gaol. I was right. His welcome back to the world outside included being unable to buy a coffee from the refreshments trolley because “it’s card only, we don’t take cash for security reasons”. I suspect that excuse isn’t strictly true. Also in a world where cash may not be accepted should perhaps the prison service provide part of the discharge grant on a pre-loaded card rather than just an envelope of cash? I stepped off the train at Ludlow to find that although it was a little cooler it was still very humid. 

It wasn’t far to the Feathers Hotel but the last bit was uphill.

The Feathers is very old and a bit of a labyrinth inside, very characterful but you feel like you should leave a trail of chalk marks to find your way back out from your room. It was a nice room mind you, with a fine view of the car park and a good selection of teabags. I unpacked and chilled for a bit then set out to explore Ludlow and find some food.

Ludlow is very photogenic. There are so many half timbered buildings, including the Feathers Hotel which has an ornate frontage constructed in 1619 over an earlier core building - which explains the higgledy-piggledy nature of the interior. There are narrow streets with Tudor buildings, also wide streets with Georgian fronted buildings, and a wide market place in front of a Norman castle. In the centre of town it would be easier to count the buildings which don’t have blue plaques provided by the Ludlow Civic Society! Ludlow contains more than 420 listed buildings, nine of them Grade I and 25 of them Grade II*

It is also quite hilly, especially if you walk down to the River Teme and back as I did. There’s a nice walk along the far side of the river between Dinham Bridge and Ludford Bridge with views of the castle and town. Just enough distance to build up an appetite.

I dined at Pietro Lounge, a modern cafe bar located on the Market Place in what used to be The George pub. A pint of Henry Weston’s Vintage Cider and a very tasty Nasi Goreng set me back £15.40 and though it did not occur to me at the time I think maybe they forgot to charge for the cider. Maybe it was some happy hour deal, I was certainly happy 😀. 

I went to walk some of it off around the outside of Ludlow Castle and then through the streets and little lanes of Ludlow. I stopped for a hydration break at the Church Inn and sat in the beer garden which is actually part of St. Laurence’s churchyard. This proved to be a bit of an error. The church bells immediately commenced with a bloody loud and largely tuneless peal. It was lovely when they stopped. Trouble is after a pause they started again. And again. And again. I don’t know if they were ringing them or throwing them down the stairs and carrying them back up again - hence the pauses. I retreated to my room at the Feathers and slept like the proverbial log.

Tuesday

On Tuesday morning I spent a couple of hours exploring Ludlow Castle. £10 admission is very reasonable these days considering there’s quite a lot of castle here. There are a lot of ruined nooks and crannies to explore, also many uneven steps. Ninety-six of these will take you to the very top of the Great Tower where you can see a lot of Shropshire because obviously that’s why the Norman occupiers built it here.

Judging by the number of dismembered pigeons scattered about the castle I don’t think that the local raptors are going hungry. A round tower stands isolated in the middle of the bailey, the Chapel of St Mary Magdalene, the ground floor of which is set out with rows of chairs beneath a wooden roof. Nearly every woman who walked in said “Oh look you can get married here!” Which caused some worried expressions on the faces of some of the men 😁

Despite the proliferation of uneven surfaces it was on a wide level modern set of stairs that a little old lady went down like a sack of hammers, first drawing a small crowd and then much running back and forth by the castle staff. She stayed down for a worrying amount of time but eventually was able to sit up at least. An ambulance was sent for 😟

I completed a couple of circuits of the castle ruins and then sat on a bench between the castle and the market. You could tell that it was lunchtime even with your eyes closed from the number of folk with pungent takeaways. I noticed that Ludlow is very well provided for when it comes to benches to sit on, other towns should take note. An ambulance arrived at the castle, I estimate that it must have been about an hour since the fall down the steps.

I walked down to Mill Gate and the adjacent weir on the River Teme then back up into the town centre. Looking around inside St. Laurence’s church I found that they have the mechanism for a carillon on display although since 1989 a computer controlled electro-mechanical version has been used instead. I assume that wasn’t what was ringing the bells last night unless the computer had crashed.

What else to do on a Tuesday afternoon in Ludlow. All that walking around had made me thirsty. I found the Rose and Crown tucked away in a courtyard between the cheese shop and the pottery shop in Church Street. A Joule’s Brewery pub, not familiar to me so having tried a pint of very nice Blonde at only £3.90 I decided it would be remiss of me not to try the Pale as well (£3.80). From my window seat overlooking the courtyard I watched several groups stop and look at the pub, and a couple of times they came through the door, looked around, and then walked out again. I’m not sure what they were expecting to find. Not a traditional wood panelled pub interior with a large range of drinks obviously. I resisted the temptation of a third pint, went back to my room at the Feathers to chill and read for a bit until it was time for dinner again. Since it had been good before I went to the Pietro Lounge once more, I can recommend the Mediterranean grill washed down with a pint of Murphy’s if you're hungry.

After dinner I walked down Linney and across the fields to Burway, crossing the River Corve first on a footbridge in the fields then again at Corve Bridge and back up Corve Street past more half-timbered buildings, almshouses, the cemetery, and Tesco to The Feathers where I retired to my room to watch YouTube. Using the Pipe Pipe app because I’m not a masochist.

Around midnight there was an unfamiliar sound drifting in through the window from outside. It was actually raining.

Wednesday

I had time to kill after checking out of hotel so got a Tesco sandwich and had a last wander around Ludlow. I went through the cemetery and up Linney, which was much harder than it had been walking down it. The sun was out, last night’s rain had dried, it was still humid. My phone said "20 degrees, feels like 25, 67% humidity". I returned to the station in good time to catch the train to Hereford.

The train was showing as “delayed due to overcrowding”! This did not bode well.

When it eventually arrived it wasn’t actually crowded. Also it was a real train with a locomotive 67 010 at the front drawing 5 carriages! Alas the sort of carriages with sod all legroom between the seats so just as well it was only a 25 minute journey.

I arrived in the ’ford. I’ve not been back since I think 2014. They’ve had the builders in, I stepped out of the station and didn’t recognise anything.

I killed time before I could check in to The Green Dragon hotel sitting by Elgar and his bike trying to book something on the Open House London site. Failed, by the time the site loaded what I wanted to visit (BT Tower) was fully booked 😡 By the way Elgar is the only cyclist in Hereford who obeys the signs saying to dismount when passing through Cathedral Green.

At The Green Dragon. Quickest check in ever, key issued (actual real key) and in my room in about a minute from walking through the front door. So all the multiple emails saying check in online (having first registered an account on a third party website? - no thanks) to “save time” was bollocks. Single room, recently decorated. Ideal for an overnight stay. It must be over 20 years since I last stayed here, I had a bigger room then but my little brother was the manager at the time.

The new shopping development on the old Cattle Market site has hollowed out the city centre a bit as I expected when I came here not long after it opened. Many empty shops now, my former go to cafe, The Matabeau, is long gone. Plenty of barbers and nail/eyebrow bars of course. Money has to be laundered somewhere.

Food service seems to stop at 3pm in the pubs in Hereford - again the Cattle Market development has the usual chain restaurants present. Co-incidence? The Imperial had no cask ales on either, what is the world coming to? I gave up and I resorted to a quick Burger King before walking to the concert venue, The Courtyard Theatre, or rather the big tent surrounded by people in hi-vis in the car park behind the Courtyard Theatre. This trip away initially started off as just a plan to come to Hereford to see Elkie Brooks in concert, I expanded it to include Ludlow afterwards. Ticket scanned and passed through the cordon of tabard-wearing stewards with a little more than an hour before the show start time. The Stowford Press was £5 a can and if you wanted a re-useable plastic “tankard” they’d be happy sell you one. I observed that it was mostly only the women who felt the need for a glass.

Elkie Brooks is amazing live. What a voice and a talent that she’s been honing longer than I’ve been alive. Lots of classics were performed especially from the Pearls album. But also covers including Jimi Hendrix (with an anecdote about him chatting her up in the Speakeasy club in London), Prince (Purple Rain), and Rag’n’Bone Man (Human). Elkie can hold a note for a very long time. Also there was more jumping about on stage (in heels!) than you might expect of an eighty-one year old. The crowd went wild, or as wild as a big tent full of geriatrics gets. My advice would be if you get the opportunity to see Elkie Brooks live grab it while you still can, you won’t regret it.

After a couple of very enjoyable hours we were discharged through the waiting “chuggers” into a night which was much cooler but not quite chilly. I considered going to see if the Black Lion was still open but in the end settled for another Stowford Press in the hotel bar.

I was woken in the night by some machine, possibly an a/c unit on another building being very loud and then again later by loud dripping water sounds outside somewhere echoing in the space between the hotel and the adjacent building. I had to close the window in the end, not ideal.

Thursday

I got up, checked the trains. Oh dear. I went to the station and got the 1036 to Newport which actually arrived in Hereford at 1150 and reached Newport at 1236. If I’d waited for the 1208 as originally planned no way would I have made my 1304 connection.

From Newport to Reading I had a seat reservation again, carriage H seat 09. The train arrived, it comprised carriages A to E. GWR is a bloody joke.

I had 6 minutes scheduled for the connection at Reading, if I missed it I’d be hanging around for an hour at least. I came off the train from Newport like Mick The Miller out of the traps. Made the connection with a couple of minutes to spare. The Giant Suitcase Cult were much in evidence on the train home, making their way to the temple at Gatwick. A woman with two large suitcases she couldn't control, couldn’t find anywhere to stow, and was trying to manoeuvre without her phone leaving her hand. Must be the high priestess. Or a blithering idiot 🙄

Home at last and I didn’t even get wet walking back from the station 😀

Lots of photos on Flickr, mostly of Ludlow. Opens in a new page or as a slide show below if your viewer supports it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Completing The Capital Ring, Plaistow to Woolwich.

5th August 2026

Capital Ring Section 14

I alighted at Plaistow Station at a more reasonable twenty to twelve in the morning, headed along the High Street to the Library because public conveniences are few and far between here and then south along Balaam Street to rejoin the Capital Ring, turning left onto The Greenway.

The broad straight tarmac strip ran almost directly east, passing behind Newham University Hospital, crossing Boundary Lane, and then continuing behind Brampton Manor Academy although the hedges and trees ensure that you can’t see much of either place. It’s an exposed slog in the sunshine with no redeeming features. Signs warning that thieves operate in the area reinforce the idea that you wouldn’t want to walk here at night. The frequently encountered stench of shit ensured that you couldn’t forget that you were walking on top of a huge sewer. I was glad to turn right down the steps at Stokes Road and leave the Greenway behind.

A short walk along residential streets brought me to the large footbridge which spans the A13 Newham Way dual carriageway. From which above the roaring traffic I had a good view of Beckton Alps. (The spoil heaps from the former Beckton Gasworks, highest point in Newham and once used as a dry ski slope.)

On the far side of the bridge a short walk along Viking Gardens brought me into Beckton District Park. This large broad open space bisected by Tollgate Road stretches all the way south to Royal Albert Way. Considering that I was passing through during the school summer holidays the park was noticeably quiet with few people about. The smell of shit was now replaced by the slightly more agreeable waft of weed.

I passed the Will Thorne Pavilion, a multi-sided brick structure surrounded by builder’s fences and barriers with signs on promising that something exciting is coming in 2026, then past a kids playground, actually quite busy which is why you’re not getting a photo of the pavilion, and a few yards further on reached the Capital Ring signpost which marks the end of Section 14. For which I was grateful, some of it had been grim.

The updated capital ring Section 14 Flickr Album is here. (Opens in a new page)

Capital Ring Section 15

The final section began with a nice shady avenue of trees running along the Beckton Corridor. That avenue also had a handy bench on which to take a hydration break and jot down some notes about the day so far - I’ve started carrying a pocket notebook and a pen to help the old memory along. It was only five minutes to one, Woolwich here I come, let’s get this done.

A broad tarmac walking and cycling path ran around the northern edge of Beckton District Park. I’ve never seen such an uneven path, cracked, subsided, patched and seemingly without any solid foundations save for some form of mesh, visible in places where the surface had gone altogether. It formed a continuous sequence of trip hazards and must be uncomfortable on a bicycle. It also had a steep camber on each side so it was best to walk in the middle. Passing out of Beckton District Park into New Beckton Park my attention was grabbed by an extraordinary modern house (or possibly small block of flats) in Savage Gardens.

Lloyd Grossman voice, “Who’d live in a pyramid like this?” 🤔

Around the park and the school I went to reach Earl Ham Manor Way and then Cyprus DLR station. It’s not often you pass the Alps and Cyprus in the same afternoon.

The Ring takes the footbridge over Cyprus station and under the Royal Albert Way to enter the University of East London Docklands Campus. I grabbed a sandwich and a drink from the Costa in the West Building and a shaded seat near the dockside and stopped for lunch, watching the aircraft taking off from London City Airport on the far side of the water.

After lunch I carried on east alongside the dock to just before the Sir Steve Redgrave Bridge where the path turned away from the water to Gallions Roundabout. It was very breezy along the waterfront.

Here was a decision point. The Capital Ring carries on through the Royal Albert Wharf development to the Thames at Gallions Reach then along the riverside and across the lock gates for the Royal Albert Basin. It then crosses Albert Island and crosses the King George V Lock gates to reach Galleons Point. Because of development works the path across the King George V Lock gates can sometimes be closed, ditto if they need to open the gates for vessels to access the docks. There is no certain way to know if the path is open except by going there. If I found it closed I’d have to come all the way back and cross the Sir Steve Redgrave Bridge to rejoin the Ring at Galleons Point. So the question you have to ask yourself is, “Do you feel lucky?” Did I? Well I crossed the road at the roundabout and headed up the windy canyon of Atlantis Avenue. Passing between the near-identical blocks of brick-faced stacky flats, each with its regulation amount of outside space (i.e. a small balcony) brought me to the river at the most easterly point of the Capital Ring. It’s not somewhere I’d choose to live but the flats here at least get a great view downstream towards Barking.

It’s unclear if there’s a way through the new development along the river’s edge so I walked down Magellan Boulevard and back beside the river along Wallis Walk. This crosses the Impounding Culvert through which water is drawn by the Royal Docks Impounding Station a little way inland to control the water level in the docks. At the end of Wallis Walk it all started to get a bit more “ex-industrial wasteland”. The blocks of flats stopped alongside the lock to the Royal Albert Basin.

I crossed the lock gates onto Albert Island. The island hasn’t been developed as housing because it lies directly under the flight path for London City Airport right next to it in King George V Dock. This is also one reason why it is proposed that the Smithfields wholesale meat market and Billingsgate wholesale fish market be moved here from their current long-standing sites within the City of London. Assuming this goes ahead then in the next few years Albert Island will become New Smithfield and New Billingsgate Markets. How this will affect the route of the Capital Ring remains to be seen. Anyway there’s a lot of empty space here at the moment.

With some trepidation I followed the narrow path this way and that, hemmed in by high chain link and steel mesh fences and brambles. Alongside the river I noticed that someone has set up home by the beach, a tent in the bushes surrounded by a garden of found objects and wildflowers. 

I came around the final turn and up over some concrete steps to find…

Yes! The footpath gates are open and the lock gates are closed 👍

No need to back track around a lengthy diversion. I was very glad to see that. I crossed the lock gates noting that there was definitely some activity going on in the lock and left Albert Island behind.

Galleons Point has a change of spelling but is still more stacked flats. Which spelling is correct? Well the area and stretch of river is named after the Galyon family. Don't expect consistency in English place names.

Presumably these are more expensive flats since they face the Thames and have views downstream and upstream. Having walked along the path between the flats and the river I came to a locked metal gate, released by pressing a button on the wall behind you. This gate can only be opened during “daylight hours” (unless you have a residents’ key fob) so if you find it won’t unlock you have to go all the way back to King George V Lock and follow a lengthy diversion via Albert Road and Barge House Road. I didn’t see a button on the outside so if you were walking the Ring in the “wrong” direction presumably you can’t get through at all and have to follow the road instead? Fuck private public spaces. Fortunately the gate unlocked to the press of the button.

At Barge House Causeway, a long slipway leads out into the river, the landward end surrounded by memorials and tributes to Kaliyah Coa, an 11 year old girl who died accidentally in March 2025 after entering the river here, reportedly while attempting to retrieve her friend’s shoe. The Thames is cold, it is unforgiving, it demands caution. 🙁

From Barge House Causeway I followed the path which hugged the riverside along a concrete wall to another slipway and then into Royal Victoria Gardens, a green space which once belonged to the Royal Arsenal across the river. Although with this summer’s weather it’s a not-very-green space apart from the trees.

At the far end of the park by Woolwich Reach is the old disused North Woolwich Pier, built by the Eastern Counties Railway for their ferries to Woolwich, or as they called it South Woolwich, which had no railways at the time. Once a direct railway was built two years later and the municipally owned free Woolwich Ferry was established just upstream in 1889 it rather did for the Eastern Counties Railway's ferry operations and they ceased in 1908. Some kids were playing on the beach at the water’s edge, watched over from the top of the steps by a couple of adults. The Thames is cold, it is unforgiving, it demands caution.

At Pier Road I crossed the approach road to the Woolwich Ferry just as Dame Vera Lynn was docking (the ship not the singer, stop it). There’s no pedestrian crossing here for some reason so you have to be careful with the traffic when getting from the river bank to the north entrance to the Woolwich Foot Tunnel.

Opened in 1912 the foot tunnel, along with the similar one at Greenwich, allowed the workers who mostly lived on the other side of the Thames to get to the docks without relying on the lightermen's ferries and risking being late for work because of bad weather. I’ve been through it several times before. I made my way down the 126 steps of the spiral staircase (there’s a lift too) to tunnel level and out under the Thames. Because the tunnel curves downwards under the river bed and then up again towards each end you cannot see all the way from one end to the other. It is 1,654 feet (504m) long. Once you start on the upward slope it feels longer. Try not to think about all that water less than ten feet above the tunnel roof 😏

The tunnel has a lot of signs stating that cycling is not allowed, that cyclists should dismount, that cycling is forbidden under the byelaws governing the tunnel, etc. All a waste of time and money since it seems that the signs are invisible to cyclists (and illegal electric scooter riders) some of whom ride at great speed, using the downward slope to gain as much momentum as possible. Despite the CCTV it seems no enforcement of the byelaws is carried out. I was glad it wasn’t busy. I reached the south end of the tunnel. Of course the lift was out of service - I’ve never seen it working - so I dragged myself up the spiral staircase and out of the entrance building to the south bank of the Thames in Woolwich.

Capital Ring ✅

I went and celebrated with a pint in Prince Albert Rose’s before making my way to Woolwich station for the train home, making it through the gate line with just two minutes to spare before peak hours started 😁

Capital Ring Section 15 Flickr Album (opens in a new page) Or in the slideshow below if your viewer supports it.

 

 

Where next? No idea.

Would I recommend walking the Capital Ring? Maybe. Parts of it are a bit grim. Parts of it are very busy. The London Loop is nicer but is also twice as long!

Anyway I now have both certificates hanging on my wall 😊

Walking the Capital Ring, Stoke Newington to Plaistow

Sunday 26th July

A combination of morning of procrastination and a tree falling on a railway line meant that I didn’t arrive in Stoke Newington to begin Section 13 of the Capital Ring until ten past three in the afternoon. Just as well it doesn’t get dark until nine o’clock at night really.

From the railway station I walked south down Stamford Hill to the gates of Abney Park Cemetery, popped in to use the facilities next to the cafe, and crossed over Stamford Hill again, turning up Cazenove Road over the railway line and then left and right to follow Filey Avenue. There were many people on these residential streets wearing strange clothes and big black hats. I think wearing these outfits means that God says they can cycle very fast on the footway and don’t have to give way to pedestrians but it could be something else.

Shortly after crossing Upper Clapton Road I entered Springfield Park, named rather literally for the series of springs which emerge here from the sand and gravel and London clay. Presumably these feed into the large pond to the right as you cross the park below Springfield House. Going down the hill into the Lea Valley (or Lee Valley, take your pick) I could see across Walthamstow Marshes on the other side of the River Lea/River Lee, the bank of which I reached opposite the marina. Turning right along the towpath I had deja vu all over again as I realised I’d walked along here before, after visiting the superb Markfield BeamEngine a short way to the north in South Tottenham.

I crossed the River Lea on the footbridge as I had done in 2019 and turned right onto the towpath, joining the Lea Valley Walk, which the Capital Ring follows for the next three miles.

I followed the broad gravel path alongside the river which was lined with a great variety of boats in various states of repair. At one point I was passed by a large steel barge towing what looked like an orange flying (floating?) saucer. The latter swung back and forth on its tow line to a soundtrack of a diesel engine revving and shouts of “Sorry!” as it bumped or narrowly missed the moored boats.

It was turning into a hot afternoon and alas The Anchor & Hope pub is on the wrong side of the river - though that might actually be just as well or progress would have come to a halt. As it was I carried on to the shade of the railway arches which carry the West Anglia Main Line over the River Lea. The arches also carry a plaque recording that in 1909 A V Roe made the first all British powered flight, in a triplane which was built under the arches and flew 900 feet across the marshes.

Further along I came to a sign which read “Welcome to the Lee Valley Ice Centre”, which meant I’d missed the turning across King’s Head Bridge so had to retrace my steps a short way and then cross the river and turn left to reach the Lea Bridge on Lea Bridge Road. On the other side of which I passed Lea Bridge Weir, where the River Lea and the River Lee Navigation divide at the redundant Middlesex Filter Beds, now a nature reserve. The Capital Ring follows the River Lee Navigation to the west of Hackney Marshes while the River Lea passes to the East so I can stick to one spelling until they join up again at Old Ford Lock. For a short while the towpath ran in the shade of some nice big trees before crossing over on a footbridge to the sunny side again to pass the filter beds and Hackney Marshes, both unseen behind the embankment and trees as the Hackney Cut as this part of the Lee Navigation is also called ran more or less south east. At least the marshes would have remained unseen except that just before Cow Bridge there was blue and white tape across the towpath, necessitating a short diversion while the police fished a corpse out of the water. Of course the man in Lycra decided the tape didn’t apply to him, lifted it over his head and cycled onward until he was given a polite bollocking by the woman police officer standing on the bridge and sent back again. Pillock.

Back on the towpath beyond the incident I plodded on along the Hackney Cut past more floating homes and the odd one which wasn’t floating any more, under another footbridge and under Marshgate Bridge where I rested on a handy bench for a few moments to drink some water, it being a bit warm. It was also quite busy with walkers, joggers, and cyclists so you needed to keep a constant watch fore and aft.

The high bridges of the A12 East Cross Route loomed ahead with the huge red advertising display sticking up above them. Underneath the bridges there was some interesting street art which was being added to by someone the UK Government would no doubt regard as a terrorist.

The other side of the A12 I passed the bars and restaurants in the former Olympic Press Centre, now part of Here East “London’s campus for entrepreneurs, creatives, and unconventional thinkers to create at scale. We put ambitious minds at the centre of East London’s evolving ecosystem of business, culture, and creativity.” On a Sunday afternoon they were mostly creatively eating and drinking as far as I could see.

Not far to the end of Section 13 now, under Wallis Bridge, under the Mildmay Line, and under White Post Lane to Canal Park where Section 13 meets Section 14 without a sign that I could see to mark the join.

I sat on a bench opposite the Hertford Union Canal entrance, considered having dinner at one of the popular canal side restaurants, checked the menu, thought better of it, watched people messing about in boats or wobbling about on paddle-boards, and decided to carry on along Section 14.

Capital Ring Section 13 Flickr Album - opens in a new page or below as a slide show below if your viewer supports it.

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 That simply involved getting off the comfortable bench and carrying on along the towpath. Section 14 runs for 4.8 miles from Hackney Wick to Beckton District Park. Much of the route follows the Greenway, the path on top of the Northern Outfall Sewer and therein lies a problem. A section of the Greenway between Channelsea Path near Abbey Mills Pumping Station and Upper Road near the East London Cemetery is closed for sewer works until 2028. Because the London, Tilbury & Southend Railway & the District Line run right through the middle of that gap the possible diversions add either 1.3 miles or 1.7 miles depending which one you take. So it made sense to knock a bit of this section off now rather than have a longer walk next time and if I took the shorter diversion I could finish conveniently at Plaistow Station to catch a train homewards. So off I set along the Lee Navigation past the Bobby Moore Academy and the London Stadium to Old Ford Lock. I must say that everyone on Fish Island on the far side of the river seemed to be having a good time.

Just beyond Old Ford Lock - its adjacent Lock Keeper’s Cottages famous for being Channel Four’s “The Big Breakfast” house - the River Lea rejoins the Lee Navigation, its big loop around Hackney Marshes having been bypassed in the 18th century by the Hackney Cut along which I’d just walked. By crossing the Lea on the footbridge just after the lock I left Tower Hamlets and entered Newham and just around the next bend turned left up a slope onto the Greenway.

The Greenway, here also called Victoria Walk, ran almost directly east in a straight line with the London Stadium (home to West ham FC) to the north and Bow Goods Yard East to the south. You can see the former but not the latter because although the Greenway is raised up it’s also screened by trees. Where there are gaps in the trees you get glimpses of Stratford’s towers and the strange squat black hexagonal structure that is the ABBA Arena.

At Marshgate lane there more sewer works and the usual ramp down from the Greenway to get under the railway was closed, entailing a loop down a path to the left, then left under the sewer and under the railway to the front of Pudding Mill Lane DLR Station. I was glad someone had been out and marked the route with Capital Ring stickers on various bits of street furniture. Having made it through the cunning stunts on bikes being performed across the station forecourt by the local yoof I crossed Marshgate Lane and rejoined the Greenway where it crosses City Mill River and turns straight east again towards Stratford. I crossed the Waterworks River and then the A118 Stratford High Street onto the next bit of Greenway which passes the impressive cathedral-like Abbey Mills Pumping Station, visible through a strategic gap in the hedge.

It was almost 6 pm and so still light. This is good because I felt that this particular bit of Greenway was not somewhere you’d want to be after dark. Now I’d reached Channelsea Bridge, the point where the Greenway is closed. The diversion route isn’t clearly signposted - I think I saw one sign in Manor Road - but I’d made sure to plot it on the map and load it into my phone's navigation app before leaving home.

I took the ramp down to the left into Abbey Road, passed the rows of resting Jubilee Line trains at Stratford Market Depot, Abbey Road DLR Station, and the row of railway cottages, straight on into Mitre Road, across Manor Road into Stephen’s Road to reach Plaistow* Road where I turned right. Simples. There are plenty of shops in Plaistow Road so I stopped to get a cold drink and a snack before carrying on to Plaistow Station.

In front of Plaistow Station seems to be the place to be to sit on a summer Sunday evening and swig cheap vodka from a bottle, or sleep propped up against a wall. I’d neglected to bring any vodka so instead I got on the train without delay 😀

Capital Ring Section 14 Flickr Album - opens in a new page or below as a slide show below if your viewer supports it.

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Note: Pronounced “PLAHST-oh”, other Plaistows have different pronunciations.

A Trip to the Dorset Seaside

Monday 20th July

I had a brief trip to the seaside in Dorset before all the schools broke up for summer and for a visit to the Swanage Railway. I stayed in Bournemouth which meant I could travel by train - Swanage is no longer connected to the national rail network - rather than sit in traffic heading for the coast. Most of the journey would be on a CrossCountry Voyager so I treated myself to a 1st Class ticket, Standard Class on those trains is hellish, livestock would get better conditions. At Reading I settled into a single seat at a table and just before departure was joined in the seat opposite by a guy who appeared to have been on “a very good weekend in London”. When the ticket inspector arrived he took ages to locate his ticket, emptying his entire wallet including a big wad of cash onto the table before having it pointed out that he was sitting in 1st Class with only a standard class ticket. “Oh, I hadn’t noticed” No, because the seats and doors with ‘First Class’ clearly written on them aren’t a clue, are they? The chancer was dispatched into the next coach and I got the full legroom back. After a nice complementary on-train lunch we arrived on time in sunny Bournemouth.

I had 45 minutes before I could check into my hotel room so walked the long way around via the East Overcliff before turning inland to Bournemouth’s “hotel land” to find the Langtry Manor Hotel.

Built as The Red House in 1877 Edward Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII) provided the house for his mistress, socialite and actress Lillie Langtry. Prince Edward was, as the plaque on the wall outside states, “A Frequent Visitor”. Nudge, nudge, wink, wink.

I had a nice room, furnished in period style with a four poster bed and a large free-standing bath of the kind with sides so high as to provide a challenge to getting in and out. It also had a balcony with a chair and table on it overlooking the garden. This was accessed via three steps out of a window with a sign reading “Mind your head and the steps” above it. I looked at the mis-aligned unsupported ends of the balcony deck boards and decided I didn’t need to sit on a balcony :-)

Once the heat of the day had started to abate I headed into Bournemouth town centre for something to eat. It’s very “student orientated”, at least the end through which I walked. Also it has either gained a large South Asian population since I was last here (a long time ago and I was here for work) or it has become a favoured destination for such holidaymakers.

Having eaten I headed to Bournemouth Pier and then walked along the prom all the way to Boscombe Pier. It’s an even longer time since I’ve been to Boscombe. I finished my walk along the prom with a pint of cider in the Harvester overlooking the pier because there appears to be a dearth of proper pubs in Bournemouth, especially the Boscombe end. the sun was setting as I walked up through Boscombe Chine and back to Langtry Manor.

Tuesday 21st July

Next morning I was up, washed and ready by eight o’clock for breakfast, served (by the lovely Anna) in the Derby Manor Hotel a short walk across the road. I’ve walked further to the hotel restaurant when it’s been in the same building. Of course it was a nice sunny morning, if it was pissing down with rain it would be less ideal.

Off to the Swanage Railway.

This would involve a bus. I walked to the bus station to catch the Route 50 Purbeck Breezer, operated by an open-topped double-decker. I could have caught it a little closer at its first stop but going to the bus station proved to be the right choice - it was a very full bus that left the bus station, definitely no room for any more up top. It takes the bus about an hour and ten minutes to get to Swanage Station via Sandbanks and Studland, which means you have the novelty of being on an open-topped bus on the chain ferry. The £3 bus fare seems like a particular bargain since the ferry alone would be £1.18 as a foot passenger.

Swanage Beach was very busy as we passed, arriving at Swanage Station in good time to buy a ticket (Adult day ticket £27.50) and await the 1200 departure to Norden at the other end of the line, beyond Corfe Castle. This was operated by an Ex-South West Trains BR class 121 ‘Bubble Car’ No W55028 with two units from a Class 117 Diesel Multiple Unit to make up a three coach train. Unusually for a heritage railway the services appear on Real Time Trains so you can see it left 2 minutes late but made up 1 minute by the time it reached Norden. To my great surprise though by no means empty it was not a very busy train, nor were any of the other trains that day which made for a very pleasant day out.

The Swanage Railway at five and a half miles in length is long enough to feel like a proper train journey and runs a frequent enough timetable that you really can hop on and off at the intermediate stations and feel like you’ve got your money’s worth. From Norden I caught the 1320 to Corfe Castle, hauled by resident steam locomotive SR 2-6-0 - U Class No. 31806. Built in Brighton and a long way from its original working patches of Nine Elms, Basingstoke, and Guildford. It would be fair to say that it isn’t working as hard on the Swanage line. At 1405 having made good use of the Corfe Castle station cafe I took the diesel train to Harmans Cross, a peaceful rural station which happens to be where trains pass each other on the mostly single track line. So every so often there’s a burst of activity although few people seemed to alight. A German couple appeared from who-knows-where and since the ticket office wasn’t open had to buy tickets online. They must have been on a different mobile network to me, Three UK doesn’t acknowledge the existence of that part of rural Dorset.

At 1453 No.31806 took me back to Swanage where it was bloody hot. The Co-op next to the station provided ice cream and a cold drink before I went for a last round trip, catching the 1600 diesel to Norden, sitting in the “Bubble Car” along with a family, all three generations of which were equally excitable and noisy. The busy train emptied out at Norden, most of the passengers making a one-way trip back to the station car park. The handful of us going back to Swanage at 1640 were all in the “Bubble Car”, the other two units having been locked while it was standing in the platform at Norden. Even so it was a quiet run back.

I enjoyed the Swanage Railway. There’s a video too (on PeerTube). 

And a shorter video (on YouTube) as the full one might take a while to load. 

I went for a stroll along the seafront and then to the White Swan for beer (Purbeck Brewery Operation S.M.A.S.H. 4.2%, very nice) and dinner (liver & bacon with gravy and mashed spuds, food of the gods). The next bus back to Bournemouth wasn’t until five past seven so obviously I had another pint before walking back to the station. No trouble obtaining a seat on the open top deck, shame about the group of teenage tossers who also boarded, who carried on the argument with the woman they’d upset before getting on board, throwing insults and misogynist comments over the rail at the back of the bus. By the time we reached Studland the temperature had dropped a bit and once across the ferry it was breezy enough that I was glad I’d put a long sleeved top in my bag that morning.

It had been a long day. By the time I’d walked back to my hotel I was ready for bed but first copied the photos and video clips to my laptop. I backed up my photos to my Synology NAS at home too - by tethering my phone to the laptop because the hotel Wi-Fi was woeful. Then I slept like the proverbial log.

Wednesday 22nd July

I had no particular plan for today but over breakfast decided to visit Weymouth. I don’t think I’ve ever been to Weymouth though we might have driven through back in the 90s and failed to find anywhere to park the campervan. I could have gone by bus or train. Train would be quicker. Walked to the station, bought a ticket, discovered that the train before the one I’d intended to catch was running so late that I caught that and was still later arriving than if I’d been on the one I’d gone for. SWR have already paid out the Delay Repay. Weymouth was hot and busy. I stopped at a cafe in town because there were seats in the shade outside. Walked across the bridge over the Wey into the old town and all the way to the point below Nothe Fort.

I returned to the old town, near the former brewery. Mmm, brewery. Warm isn’t it? Important to stay hydrated and there are some tables outside The Red Lion which are shaded by trees. It would’ve been rude not to. (Otter Brewery Lifeboat Ale, 3.6%, very good)

Weymouth centre was filling up with the sort of people who think a narrow street is the ideal place to all stop and gather round to have a long discussion. I returned to the station and caught a train to Poole. I’ve only ever been to Poole for a brief work visit so decided to stop and take a look around while I was “passing”. I walked down the high street to the quayside, losing count of the number of vape shops, barbers, charity shops, and nail bars. So far just like any other high street then. The Quay was much nicer. Busy with boats going to and from Poole Harbour past the very expensive toys in the Sunseeker boatyard opposite.

I walked along the Quay to the old Lifeboat Station by the boat haven and back to the Baden-Powell memorial, surrounded by Scouts just back from Brownsea Island for a commemorative photo. I considered a boat trip to Brownsea Island myself but there was only one more round trip which meant no time on the island itself. That will have to wait until another time.

I found a seat in a shelter out of the sun. The Scouts were still milling about in a disorganised fashion. “Could you all quieten down and gather around?”, said the Scoutmaster, to no obvious effect. What happened to “Shut up you ’orrible lot and fall in by Patrols!”? It worked on us. Do they even still have Patrols? It’s been forty-odd years since I was involved in The Scouts.

There are some nice pubs on Poole Quay, it had been a long time since breakfast so I went to The Portsmouth Hoy where I had Haddock & Chips washed down by a pint of Fursty Ferret (3.4%, very good). Always impressive when you get two pieces of haddock. Crispiest batter ever too.

Back to the station and to Bournemouth. It had been another long day, which called for a soak in that bathtub. After which I couldn’t be bothered to go anywhere else.

Thursday 23rd July

One last full English breakfast then packed and at the station in good time to catch the 1045 to Reading. Which trundled so slowly along that it arrived 17 minutes late, at exactly the time my connecting train departed. Oh good, another hour sitting at Reading Station. Delay Repay claim submitted to CrossCountry, four days later it’s still “In Progress”. What’s the betting they try to wriggle?