Clevedon

 

22nd June 2021

 

On the North Somerset coast facing South Wales across the Severn Estuary lies the small Victorian seaside resort of Clevedon. Just the place for an extended day trip which since it hasn’t had a railway since 1966 had to be by car. Some online pre-planning identified a hotel for an overnighter and a parking place on the clifftop within a short walk of the seafront and early on Tuesday morning that’s the destination I entered into the satnav.

 

 

 

My main reason for picking Clevedon was to visit the pier, one of the earliest surviving Victorian piers and described by Sir John Betjemen as “the most beautiful pier in England”. My first glimpse from the clifftop footpath revealed the 1024 foot (312m) structure stretching out in to the estuary in the unexpected sunshine and I was struck by how “lightweight" it appeared compared to many other piers, the deck held high above the water on slender legs.

 

 

 

The pier opened in 1869, serving as a tourist attraction in its own right and as an embarkation point for paddle steamer excursions. Two of the spans collapsed during stress testing in 1970 and demolition was proposed, but local fund raising and heritage grants allowed the pier to be dismantled for restoration and reassembled. It reopened in 1989, and ten years later was awarded the Pier of the Year from the National Piers Society. Excursion steamers once again call at the pier in the summer season although I didn’t see any on his particular Tuesday. The pier has now reopened post-lockdown and entry was an entirely reasonable £3.50 per adult including gift aid. Up to date info including opening times is on the Clevedon Pier Website here.

 

 

 

At the end of the piers the Pagoda which operates as a cafe selling teas and coffees and ice creams. There’s also two shelters. And that’s it. No amusements, no funfair rides, no tacky shops. Just a Victorian pier. I liked it a lot.

 

 

 

The tea was very nice as were the views up and down the estuary, you can even see the Second Severn Crossing carrying the M4 motorway from England to Wales. The prom at Clevedon  is almost devoid of the usual amusement arcades and other seaside attractions. There are a couple of seafront pubs and a good few restaurants. There’s also a fish and chip shop as is only right and as is only right I indulged in seaside chips with plenty of salt and vinegar. After which I walked along the front and up onto the south headland following the Poet’s Walk around the Iron Age hill fort and back into the town.

 

 

 

If you are looking for a sandy beach don’t look for it in Clevedon, it’s strictly pebbles and rock pools. This probably keeps most of the families with kids further along the coast at Weston Super Mare. I regard this as a plus point :-) At the west end of the seafront is Salthouse Fields, a large open area (occupied by the circus when I was there) with a children’s playground and a miniature railway (sadly not operating that day). Next to it is the other major feature of the seafront, the enclosed Marine Lake.

 

 

 

 

This was popular with swimmers, canoeists, and model boaters until quite late in the evening. I’m not convinced that it was very warm but they all seemed to be enjoying it anyway. As well as the usual gardens, Victorian bandstand, and shelters there is on the seafront the shiny stainless steel "Millennium Monument - The Spirit of Clevedon AD 2000”.

 

 

I’m afraid that it rather put me in mind of a large paraffin heater :-)

 

If you like Victorian seaside resorts I can heartily recommend Clevedon.