Saturday 5th September
Back to Lea bridge to continue the Green Link Walk. I set out on Section 2 at half past midday which was slightly later than anticipated because the TFL Go app directed me to a bus stop in Hackney which doesn’t exist. I got off the number 56 bus at Chatsworth Road and walked down to the River Lee, ducking under Lea Bridge, passing the now familiar Princess of Wales pub which was doing a good Saturday lunchtime trade. I’d been along here on the Capital Ring recently but this time once past the weir and the hump where there used to be a canal arm I turned right, leaving the river and the Ring behind and striking out south across Millfields Park. I didn’t strike out very far though before finding shaded bench on which to eat the sandwich I’d bought while hunting to the right bus stop in Hackney. Today’s expedition had been a spur of the moment thing and I’d not had breakfast.
Thus refuelled for the walk ahead I carried on. It was fairly busy in Millfields Park but probably quieter than in the year 527. According to tradition it’s believed that the Battle of Hackney took place here when Æscwine of Essex rebelled against Octa, the Anglo Saxon King of Kent, defeating him to establish the Kingdom of Essex. There’s not much evidence that Æscwine existed mind you so it could all be bol… erm, a myth 😀
On the far side of the park I crossed into Millfields Road which took me all the way to Clapton Pond which was very photogenic in the sunshine.
I passed the pond, crossed Lower Clapton Road and carried on along Downs Road to Hackney Downs. Rather than following the main route of the Green Link along the east side of the downs I headed straight to the centre because there’s something quite rare for London in the middle of Hackney Downs. Public Conveniences. I sat a while and watched someone grooming a large black dog which was standing on top of a large grey rock and then returned to the south-east corner of the downs to rejoin the walk.
The next 500 metres brought me to Clapton Square which I cut through to reach Lower Clapton Road opposite the former Police Station, now a school, and then along Churchwell Path into the grounds of Hackney Church. Somewhere in the churchyard is the grave of Rear Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort of Beaufort Scale of wind strength fame. I did a loop of the church but somehow failed to spot his amongst the many tombs. I rejoined Churchwell Path south of the churchyard and followed it all the way to Morning Lane, passing under the Mildmay Line on the way, and then continued south into the centre of Hackney.
Hackney is quite hellish for pedestrians because of cyclists who ride just wherever they like. Roadway, footway, across parks, the wrong way up one-way streets, diagonally across junctions frequently without actually looking where they are going or even while looking at their mobile phones held in one hand. You really need eyes in the back of your head while walking and I witnessed several near misses.
Turning west I passed Hackney Telephone Exchange, the Picturehouse, and the Town Hall before turning left along Hackney Grove and then Martello Street, going under the railway line to reach London Fields. Standing by the railings near the Pub on the Park to check my route I was suddenly struck in the kidneys by a set of bicycle handlebars. Some gormless idiot was pushing his bike along the footway without taking any notice of where he was going or anyone else around him apart from the girl he was with. I had to resist the urge to knock the c*** into the middle of next week 😡 Like I said above, hellish.
I followed the footpath across the middle of London Fields (now even more aware of two-wheeled terrors) crossing Lansdowne Drive on the other side where two bicycles almost collided, their riders both having decided to ride diagonally across the junction with Shrubland Road, down which I continued. I made the very short detour to get a photo of the corrugated iron Sight of Eternal Life Church, a “tin tabernacle” built in 1858 at a cost of just £1250 and believed to be the oldest surviving example of an iron church in existence.
Amazingly it’s not yet been converted into or replaced by flats.
I returned to the walk along Albion Drive, crossing Queensbridge Road and arriving at Albion Square Gardens. Sitting in the shade on a bench under a tree, with palm trees and the gentle sound of someone playing Steel Pan Drums somewhere nearby it felt like anywhere but Haggerston in the middle of London. A little oasis of cool and calm.
Crossing the corner of Stonebridge Common and passing beneath the East London Line railway I reached Kingsland Road. It’s a fact that anyone who is lost will always first ask directions of someone who isn’t local and this was proven by the young guy who approached me as I was about to cross Kingsland Road who had apparently got off at the wrong station and was trying to find the way to King’s Cross. I said I wasn’t local so couldn’t help him. It’s a sad indictment of these times that my first thought was “do not get your mobile out to check for directions if you want to keep it” 😟
Through De Beauvoir Town (and yes I pronounce it Da Beaver because 1, it’s correct and 2, it’s funny) I walked to the left of De Beauvoir Square and onward along Northchurch Road. This section of the Green Link follows the same route as Cycleway 27. Say no more 😉
Everyone appeared to be having a good Saturday afternoon in The De Beauvoir Arms when I passed though as far as I can make out they don’t sell Beavertown beers which is strangely disappointing. Another half mile or so along residential streets brought me to the New North Road, having left De Beauvoir Town and entered Islington. I took Spellbrook Walk to Prebend Street and the well-tended little front gardens of Islesden House. I took these to be almshouses but they are general needs housing and sheltered accommodation run by the loacl authority. They’re not as old as I first assumed either, the estate was built in 1948 by the Trustees of the London Parochial Charities. In 1953, the Trustees conveyed the property to the City of London. They’re very different to most of the buildings around here.
The spire of St. James pointed at a bright blue sky with hardly a cloud in it as I walked down Prebend Street and it was turning into another warm afternoon. I stopped at a local shop on the corner of Packington Street for a cold drink. I’d have bought an ice cream too if they’d had any. I realised afterwards that I could have turned left here and gone through Packington Square and Canalside Square to take the alternative route along the Regent’s Canal towpath but that was on the next page of the walking instructions. Instead I carried on along the street to cross the canal at Danbury Street bridge.
On the other side of the bridge I turned left along Vincent Terrace parallel to the canal, dodged around the twat in a suit with no spatial awareness who just stepped backwards into my path outside the Plaquemine Lock pub completely oblivious to his surroundings, and reached the end of Section 2 at Colebrooke Row adjacent to the portal to the Islington Tunnel.
Which I couldn’t see because it was cordoned off with roadworks barriers.
It was twenty past three. I went and sat down in the shade in Duncan Terrace Gardens.
Green Link Walk Section 2 ✅
42 Photos on Flickr from Green Link Walk Section 2. Opens in a new page or as a slide show below if your viewer supports it.
