Green Link Walk Section 3: Regent's Canal to Bankside

Saturday 5th September (late afternoon)

Section 3 of the Green Link Walk is only two and a half miles, from the Regent’s Canal to Bankside on the other side of the River Thames. After sitting for about half an hour in Duncan Terrace Gardens I decided to carry on walking rather than quitting and heading for Angel tube station.

After all it was a sunny Saturday afternoon, how busy could the City be?

I left Duncan Terrace through the gate at the southern end and crossed City Road, passed the large octagonal vent shaft building above Angel station on the Northern Line then crossed Goswell Road into Owen Street with Owen Square on my left and St. John Street into Chadwell Street to reach Myddelton Square, keeping left of St. Mark’s Church.

The name of the square along with several other streets nearby is from Sir Hugh Myddelton (1560-1631), a Welsh born clothmaker, goldsmith, banker, entrepreneur and engineer who is mainly remembered as the driving force behind the New River, an artificial waterway opened in 1613 to bring fresh water from springs in Hertfordshire London, which in part it still does. The original route of the New River (and the current New River Path walking route) runs through Duncan Terrace and Owen Street before veering south to the former waterworks at New River Head.

The Green Link Walk continues west to cross Amwell Street (named after one of the springs near Ware which fed the New River) and on to Lloyd Square safely locked away behind its railings. From the westernmost corner Lloyd Square you can see the former Post Office Tower over in Fitzrovia.

I turned left and passed a guided walking tour in Wilmington Square, which sounded as if it was New River related, past the end of Exmouth Market and then on down Tysoe Street to Spa Fields. I’ve been here a few times because the adjacent London Archives has very interesting free exhibitions. The current offering is Londoners on Trial - Crime, Courts and the Public 1244–1924. I must arrange to come back and pay another visit.

I was now in Clerkenwell, - the area derives its name from the Clerks’ Well, clerken being the Middle English plural of clerk, a literate person or clergyman. It being Saturday Clerkenwell was fairly quiet save for someone doing a fashion photo shoot at The Horseshoe pub and a wedding at St. James’s Church.

Jerusalem Passage brought me out in St. John’s Square and I crossed Clerkenwell Road to pass through the arch of St. John’s Gate, originally built in 1504 as the south entrance to the inner precinct of Clerkenwell Priory, the English headquarters of the Knights of the Order of St John known as the Knights Hospitaller. The order was re-established in the nineteenth century, they’re the St. Johns with the ambulances. The building has had a variety of uses since the Dissolution of the Monasteries by Henry VIII including a printing house, William Hogarth’s father’s Coffee House and a tavern. It is now the Museum of the Order of St. John. I’ve passed many times but not had the time to go in and the same applied today.

St. John’s Lane (with the aeroplane clock) and St. John’s Street brought me to Charterhouse Street. I was tempted to nip into The Hope for refreshment but it was very busy. Instead I crossed Charterhouse Street into the Grand Avenue of Smithfield Market. It being Saturday afternoon rather than early on a weekday morning the market was closed and empty, the usual smell of meat absent.

I emerged into West Smithfield and made a short diversion up Cloth Fair to check out the oldest house in the City then returned past the St. Bartholomew’s Gatehouse into Little Britain, getting my first sight on the walk of the dome of St. Paul’s Cathedral. It was about to get much busier.

I stopped by Postman’s Park for a look at the ceramic tiles of the Memorial to Heroic Self Sacrifice and a sit down before heading into the mêlée.

I passed between Christchurch Greyfriars Garden, which was a Christopher Wren church until the Luftwaffe visited on 29th December 1940 and 81 Newgate Street which until December 2021 was the headquarters of BT. This was on the site of the Central Telegraph Office, which also had a visit from the Luftwaffe on 29th December 1940 but was partially rebuilt and not replaced by the BT Centre until 1967. Also on this site Guglielmo Marconi made the first public transmission of wireless signals on 27 July 1896.

And on into “tourist central”. Queen’s Head Passage into Cannon Alley to the north side of St. Paul’s Churchyard.

I skirted around the east side of the cathedral past St Paul’s Cathedral School and then dodged through the wheelie suitcases and Nikons to cross the road into Peter’s Hill. Not far to go now.

Down the steps of Peter’s Hill to the no-longer-wobbly Millennium Bridge which was packed. Yes of course you can walk six abreast or stand in a big circle, not like anyone wants to get across the river. Bloody tourists! 😆

The Thames looked glorious as usual in the sunshine mind you.

So with impeccable bad timing I arrived on Bankside just as Tate Modern was closing.

Green Link Walk Section 3 ✅

35 photos on Flickr from Green Link Walk Section 3. Opens in a new page or as a slideshow below if your viewer supports it.