A Trip to Ireland, Chapter 5.
15th May 2026
With unusual foresight I’d arranged a late (until 1400hrs) checkout
from the Beresford Hotel, thereby avoiding having to hang around the city haunting
coffee shops or bars while awaiting the time to come to go to my ferry. So I had a lie in. Then I got up, showered, packed my backpack
and checked the times of the number 53 bus to Dublin Ferry Port. Several
times. Checked the weather forecast for both Dublin and Holyhead.
Inconclusive. I went out and got something for lunch and something for
later on since I was unsure what if anything would be open after eight
in the evening in Holyhead.
About half past one I checked out of the hotel and walked across the
road to the Busáras (Bus Station) and checked the departure boards for
route 53. It wasn’t there. I checked the timetable again, it definitely
said it went from Busáras. Slightly concerned I asked two Bus Éireann
guys leaning against the office wall where it departed from. “Ah,
that’ll be from outside, go back the way you came in, turn left, left
again an’ sure you’ll see the bus stop.” I went out the way I’d
come in, turned left, then left again and was relieved to find a bus
stop. I was even more relieved after several minutes when “53 Dublin
Ferryport” appeared on the upcoming departure display. TFFT. If you are
looking for the 53 to the Ferryport although everything online says it
departs from “Busáras” the actual stop name seems to be “Beresford
Place, Busáras” and it’s at the junction of Beresford Place and Memorial
Road. This has been a Public Service Announcement.
I got to use my Visitor Leap card on a bus just once and after half
an hour that bus dropped me somewhere in the middle of Dublin Ferryport on a
street called Alexandra Road Extension. I headed in what I hoped was the
right direction and then spotted a “pedestrians” sign pointing through
the barriers around some roadworks which led to the Stena Line
Departures shed. I checked in for boarding around 90 minutes before
departure, found a comfy seat in the Passenger Lounge and fire up my
Kindle. A short while later two uniformed Customs Officers and a
drug-sniffing spaniel came round. Fido found one passenger of particular
interest so he was taken away, presumably for the full “Moon River”
treatment, he then returned to pick up his case and vanished again,
returning just in time for boarding. To the obvious relief and some amusement of his travelling partner.
Boarding once again was by bus so by the time the foot passengers
were aboard and I got to the Stena Plus lounge (worth the £20 upgrade)
those in their own vehicles had snaffled all the best seats,
particularly those next to the large portholes. I settled for a
comfortable tub chair within easy striking distance of the complementary
drinks and snacks and got out my Kindle again. By the time our scheduled
departure at 1630 hrs arrived it was apparent that we were already under
way, slipping out of Dublin Ferryport and heading east across the Irish
Sea. The Stena Plus Lounge was very civilised, helped by having a “no
under 8s” policy. Judging by the snoring at least one person found the
ambience very restful. A text message alerted me to the fact that my
phone had roamed onto the ships ultra-expensive 5G so I connected to the
onboard WiFi instead. It wasn’t fast enough to do anything useful but at
least prevented the roaming charges. Faster WiFi was available
obviously, if you paid for it. I had no need but there were a lot of
laptops in use. Not everyone on board was on holiday.
Disaster at Sea! Both of the very fancy hot drink machines started
playing up. Thanks to the valiant efforts of the crew in persuading them
back into action a mutiny was avoided. Not that the coffee was
particularly good - it was still mechanical coffee. Fortunately there
was also every flavour of Tango in the fridge. Does Tango prevent
scurvy? 😀
Blimey, are we here already? That voyage passed quickly!
Of course there was half an hour’s hanging around in a corridor
waiting for a bus to disembark the foot passengers. While we waited some
dimwit filled the time giving the third degree to the “drug spaniel’s
best friend”. Who was very restrained considering how long the dimwit
carried on and on about it. I thought, “you should fucking let it go
before you end up with a thick ear” 🙄
Once off the boat I headed directly to the Travelodge - it was the
only place available when I made my travel bookings. I say directly but
the direct route would have been via the covered footbridge from the
station but that appears to be permanently shut. Instead it was up one
road, over the railway, back along the other side, and turn 180 degrees
again to walk to the hotel. I checked in. I came out again in search of
sustenance and walked into the town. Oh Wales! So much lovely scenery,
so many grim towns. I popped into a pub which I’ll not name for a swift
pint. While I waited to get served one of the “happy” clientele regaled
me with, “My you’re tall isn’t it how tall are you but it’s a pint
are you taller than me I think he’s taller than me what if I take my hat
off?!” Dear oh dear, how come I find them wherever I go? I suspect
Ynys Mon has a limited gene pool 😏
I couldn’t face going to the bar again so just had the one and then
picked up a Chinese Takeaway on the way back to the hotel. £14.25. They only accepted cash. I couldn’t even offload any of the twenty-year old
Euros I’d carried all round Ireland but never needed because
everywhere accepted contactless. Fortunately I also had UK cash.
Back in my room I noticed that the unnecessary convector heated had a
red flashing LCD display and read “ERROR 20”. The 21st century is overly
complicated. I turned it off at the socket outlet. When I turned it back
on in the morning it did the same thing. I left it flashing away
merrily.
16th May 2026
Leapt out of bed and across the room to turn off the alarm on my
phone because it hasn’t occurred to Travelodge that anyone might need a
socket next to the bed. Or a bedside table for that matter, only a 6” x
4” x 8” niche. Made a cup of tea, had a shower, and packed. No hair
drier but honestly after a week of soft Irish water my hair’s doing
whatever it wants anyway 😳
I checked out - well chucked my card over the unoccupied reception
counter - and took the zig-zag route back to Holyhead Railway station,
this time finding the slight shortcut via the Stena staff car park.
Holyhead Station is split in two. Platform 1 is on the through lines
that pass under the closed footbridge. Platforms 2 and 3 are in a long
curved train shed and are terminating platforms leading straight into
the ferry terminal. Platform 3 has no tracks, a fence along the platform
edge and appears to serve only as a pedestrian access to the car park
and bus stop outside. A large indoor waiting area links platforms 1 and
2 but is “locked until further notice”, which I think explains the
closed footbridge too.
The long curved train shed is obviously designed to accommodate the
long and busy “boat trains” of yesteryear. What turned up on this
Saturday morning at 0923 was a two coach Class 158 diesel multiple
unit.
Around ten or twelve of us boarded at Holyhead. I got a coast side
seat at a table by a window. Winning!
By the time we’d stopped at the next two stations the train was full
and standing. Several parties were on their way to Chester for a
Saturday out out and the beer and Prosecco had been cracked open by 10
a.m. We passed through the station with the longest
made-up-for-the-tourists name in the world and picked up even more
passengers. People were struggling to board, the train guard could only
move from one carriage to the other by getting off and walking down the
platform and getting back on. Ticket checks? Not happening. Anyone
wanting the toilet better be able to hold it in for an hour. What on
earth do Transport for Wales think they’re doing? We arrived at Chester,
the train emptied out. Two more carriages were attached and we left for
Birmingham. Welcome to Normal Island.🫨
With a bit more space to move I brought out the vegan felafel wrap
I’d brought with me from Dublin for lunch. Filled a hole but mostly
lacking in flavour. I arrived at Birmingham New Street with plenty of
time in hand to catch the 1400 CrossCountry service to Reading. I can’t
ride on CrossCountry’s plastic toy Voyager trains in standard class and
still have the use of my legs when I reach my destination. Also they’re
hellish at the weekend, akin to the Welsh train to Chester. Fortunately
I’d bagged a couple of 1st class singles, split at Banbury for a
reasonable number of pounds so had a nice solo seat, albeit facing the
wrong way, and nice young ladies bringing me complementary tea,
pretzels, and cake. Alas no sandwiches at the weekend 😢
We arrived
only two minutes late at Reading with half an hour until my train home
departed. I arrived home at five o’clock.
Six days, two boats, eleven trains, one bus. One enjoyable adventure
and less stressful than I’d feared.
The fridge is empty, better go shopping.