The problem.
The touchscreen on my 2016 Toyota RAV4 Hybrid has become gradually
less accurate and less responsive over the years until it finally
stopped responding completely. This is, I have discovered, not an
unusual thing to happen. I lived with it for a while, just streaming
media from my phone via Bluetooth but I was finally prompted to try and
do something about it when I got an incoming SMS message and the only
way to remove the notification from the car’s screen was to turn the car
off and on again.
I considered upgrading the head unit to something more modern with
Carplay & Android Auto and there are plenty of units available,
mostly Chinesium but from better known makes if you want to get spendy.
Unfortunately trying to find one which will easily integrate with the
car’s systems, particularly the reversing camera and steering wheel
controls is a non-trivial exercise. It’s a confusing mess which will
almost certainly require obtaining extra bits apart from a new head unit
and Car Audio dealers are very happy to sell you 6” of wire with a
couple of plugs on for £40 which might or might not work.
However while searching I discovered that replacement touch screen
digitiser panels for the Toyota head unit (which is actually made by
Panasonic) are available for less than £30. It seemed like that was
worth a punt since I had little to lose.
I searched eBay for TOYOTA RAV 4 2013-18 HEAD UNIT SAT NAV
TOUCH SCREEN DIGITIZER and placed an order from eBay seller
siansmobiles (there were several other sellers too) which
arrived within 48 hours.
User Remmerv on the
rav4world.com forum has posted a guide to replacing the digitiser panel which I found
helpful. It’s downloadable as a PDF.
Here I’m going to expand on that guide covering some other points and
some issues that I came across while doing the job. I hope these notes will be of use to anyone carrying out the same task.
My unit is the version without a CD drive and with the navigation
package, Toyota refer to this as Toyota Touch 2 with Go. The
process for other head units will be broadly similar and in some
instances simpler.
Tools required:
- 10mm socket or box spanner.
- Small Phillips
screwdriver (actually the screws might be JIS but a Phillips works if
you’re careful).
- 8mm socket or ring spanner.
- Spudger or thin flat
screwdriver.
Optional tools:
- Plastic car trim removal tool.
- Small needle-nose
pliers.
Removing the head unit from the car.
The first task is to extract the unit from the car, you might even
want to do that before ordering the replacement panel if you want to
check the model number but I was confident that I’d identified the unit
correctly.
There are videos of varying quality on YouTube showing how to remove
the unit, usually made by irritating Americans and mainly more about
replacing the head unit with some oversized Android screen. It’s really
not complicated to do though.
First task is to remove the long silver trim along the upper edge of
the dashboard which has the Hazard Lights button and warning lamp panel
behind it. This is held in by plastic retainers, just grip the trim
panel with your fingers and pull it directly towards you, starting at
the passenger door end and it will pop straight off.
Next remove the two air vents either side of the head unit. Again
these just plug in to retainers and can be pulled/wiggled out with your
fingers. I found pulling out the top a bit then the bottom worked best.
If you don’t have strong fingers a plastic trim removal tool might be
helpful.
Now remove the small hazard light switch & warning light panel
above the head unit in it’s yellow plastic carrier, this is held at each
end and just needs to be wiggled and pulled out. There is no need to
unplug it, just flip it over and leave it on top of the dashboard.
You are now ready to remove the head unit. This is held in by four
10mm hex head screws, two at the top and two low on the sides of the
unit. At least there are supposed to be four, in my case Toyota had
economised by omitting the lower right hand screw at the factory. You
will need a suitable 10mm socket or box spanner to reach and remove
these screws. Be careful not to drop them when taking them out for if
you do they will disappear never to be seen again.
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Place a soft cloth over the heater control panel to avoid scratching
it and pull the head unit towards you to release it from the mountings.
There is plenty of slack in the cables to allow the unit to come out far
enough to be tilted down so that you can remove the wiring plugs on the
rear. Remove all the plugs from the back of the unit except the two
which link the two parts of the unit together which can be left
connected for now. All the plugs have retaining catches which need to be
pressed before they can be pulled out. All the plugs are different so
they cannot be mixed up - they will only go back in the right places. I
still took a photo anyway. On my car one socket was not in use, having
the photo later stopped me looking behind the dash for a “missing”
plug.
You can now take the head unit out of the car to a bench or table to
carry out the next steps.
Changing the touchscreen digitiser.
With the head unit on the bench the first stage of disassembly is to
remove the lower piggy-back unit if present - I think this is the “with
Go” part. This is fixed to the side frames with four 8mm screws. These
have hex + crosspoint heads. Two of mine were very tight indeed and they
appear to be made of cheese. Seriously, use an 8mm socket or ring
spanner, the cross point for a screwdriver will round out as soon as you
apply any force.
Disconnect the cables which connect to the main unit and the antenna
cable on the front of the lower unit and put the lower unit to one
side.
You now have access to two screws which need to be removed from the
metal plate behind the front of the unit. One of these holds the socket
for the antenna plug that you disconnected in the previous step. You
will need to wiggle this socket out of its clear plastic holder along
with its thin cable because it needs to be able to pass through the hole
behind it later.
Six very small screws around the edges of the metal chassis plate
hold the plastic front cover in place. Remove these and then carefully
lift the four plastic clips, two at the top two at the bottom of the
plastic front cover and easy the front cover away from the chassis. A
spudger or thin flat screwdriver will help. Possibly two since the clips
you undid will try to click back into place while you’re undoing the
others.
Fold the front cover down away from the chassis taking care not to
damage the two large ribbon cables connecting the front to the back of
the head unit. All the ribbon cable connectors have a black hinging
locking strip which can be opened by pulling it upwards with your
fingernail going over the flat cable towards the connector. Disconnect
the two large ribbon cables, draw the grey antenna cable through the
hole in the chassis and place the chassis to one side to continue
working on the front panel.
The next step is to remove the metal shielding plate which partially
covers the printed circuit board. This is secured by four screws at the
corners. Remove the screws noting that one of them also holds a small
metal bracket with a screw hole in the top. Make a note of which way
this bracket is orientated because it is about to fall off. Once the
screws are out lift the metal plate away, you might need to
gently lever the long edge up to clear the edge of the PCB.
With the metal plate off remove the ribbon cables for the side
buttons and the digitiser panel. Undo the three screws that hold the
left side button panel in place and remove it along with its rubber
membrane. Ease the black antenna wires out of their metal hooks.
Remove the four screws holding the metal plate carrying the PCB and
the screen to the plastic front cover and lift the screen assemble away
from the front cover. The digitiser panel is laid loose between screen
and front cover so should remain in the cover but might with age be
stuck to the screen and like mine will come out with it. Carefully
separate the two and remove the old digitiser panel.
Remove the protective film from both sides of your new digitiser
panel and lay it in the plastic front panel with the ribbon cable coming
up. Spend a couple of minutes wondering why the panel won’t lay flat
before you realise that the screen in the head unit is actually angled
slightly towards the driver and the bezel that the digitiser is laying
on is not the same depth on each side so not flat is actually
correct.
Clean the display screen and replace the screen and PCB assembly on
top of the digitiser panel making everything is lined up correctly and
that the antenna cables are not trapped under the edge of the assembly
before putting the four retaining screws back in.
Reconnect the digitiser ribbon cable ensuring that the slack in the
cable does not interfere with the right hand side buttons.
Replace the left side button panel ensuring that the membrane is
properly located. Reconnect all the ribbon cables and clip the antenna
wires back into place. At least one ribbon cable will fight you because
it’s in the nature of ribbon cables to do so, gentle persistence might
be required. Reassemble the front panel to the chassis remembering to
feed the antenna wire back through the hole.
Then reassemble the unit in the reverse order to which you took it
apart, not forgetting to reconnect the cables linking the two parts of
the unit.
Testing the repaired unit.
Take the rebuilt head unit back to the car and reconnect all the
cables making sure that the connectors click fully home.
Check that everything is working as it should before fixing the unit
back in place and replacing the vents and dashboard trim. (Including the
reversing camera otherwise you’ll be coming back out later to check
because you suddenly remembered that bit half way through your cup of
coffee.)
Once happy that all is functioning as it should push the head unit back into place on its mounts and fix with the four (ish) 10mm screws. Refit the hazard light switch & warning light panel. Refit the vents and then the top dashboard trim, both of which should just 'plug' back into place.
I did not need to enter any codes after reconnecting the head unit
and indeed it had remembered the settings and phone book entries,
messages etc. from before it was disconnected.
Marvel that your Toyota’s touch screen now responds to fondling again
and you can even enter destination addresses into the years-out-of-date
SatNav!
Then wonder where this was supposed to go 😀
A PDF version of this guide is available here.